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NO NO NO E-Z-GO!

Joined: 24 Nov 2006 Posts: 66 Location: Luray, VA USA
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Posted: Mon May 28, 2007 1:07 am Post subject: Head milling |
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How much should be taken off an EH-29 head when having it milled?
Any precautions to take?
Should any other parts be beefed up? (I know the answer, but it's hard to explain to people who don't want to spend money. So any direly necessary things?)
 _________________ -Aaron
No need for its useness, it are fine if so. |
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cartmaster SITE ADMIN

Joined: 21 Nov 2006 Posts: 100 Location: Kent, United Kingdom
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Posted: Mon May 28, 2007 8:18 am Post subject: |
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I would suggest, no more then 10 thou. unless you want to start milling the pistons to take the lower valve movement.
Turn a fully rebuilt head upside down and lay a sheet of glass over it and rotate the camshaft. see how close the valves get to the glass and rmember you have flat top pistons that come up to the very top of the jug!
Not much room to play eh.
You wont need to beef anything up and the difference you will notice will be minimal.
You would get better results with a +50 rebore, new valves with older model springs and a pair of new clutches with a new belt. I did this recently for a customer and got nearly twice the torque and speed from his original setup.
Almost 20mph with slick tyres and tweaked govenor. _________________ Welcome to the customcart forum
Colin, Administrator |
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NO NO NO E-Z-GO!

Joined: 24 Nov 2006 Posts: 66 Location: Luray, VA USA
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Posted: Mon May 28, 2007 12:28 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Colin, even at $20.00 for the mill job I don't know if it's going to have proof in the pudding for the guy to justify being without the cart. I may just talk him into a rebore to 50 over and new pistons/rings. Would new rods be necessary too?  _________________ -Aaron
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cartmaster SITE ADMIN

Joined: 21 Nov 2006 Posts: 100 Location: Kent, United Kingdom
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Posted: Mon May 28, 2007 1:24 pm Post subject: |
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New rods are always a good idea, but look at the price and then the condition of the existing ones. Does the price justify replacement.
Regarding your PM dont know much about the Mci engine, only just getting popular over here. yes its a built in manifold on the head, so only a single manifold outlet, yes they seem underpowered!
The fe620d, i beleive has been superceded by a 20 hp. I dont want the rad up front in case of front end crunches. The bonnet (cowl) will flex, the rad wont! _________________ Welcome to the customcart forum
Colin, Administrator |
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NO NO NO E-Z-GO!

Joined: 24 Nov 2006 Posts: 66 Location: Luray, VA USA
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Posted: Mon May 28, 2007 3:49 pm Post subject: |
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Instead of going with a FD620, I think a FD791 would be plenty more than plenty's plenty.
You're right about the radiator being in the "danger zone." Will it dissipate enough heat under the seat?
Just FYI, here is the info on all Kawasaki engines available in the mainstream:
Liquid cooled; OHV; V-twin:
FD501D 16hp
FD620D 20hp
FD671D 23hp
FD711D 25hp
FD750D 27hp
FD791D-DFI 29hp
Air cooled; OHV; single cylinder:
FJ100D 3hp
FE120D 4hp
FE170D 5.5hp
FE250D (Found in bottom line JD Gators) 8hp
FE290D (Found in Club Car DS) 9.5hp
FE350D (Found in Club Car Precedent and most utility vehicles) 11.5hp
FE400D (Found in Carryall 272, XRT1200, and Turf1200) 13hp
FJ400D 13hp
Air cooled; OHV; V-twin:
FH601D 19hp
FH641D 21hp
FH680D 23hp
FH770D-KAI 28hp
**These are horizontal shaft engines, since we don't care about vertical shaft for carts, I left them out** _________________ -Aaron
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